What is Microneedling?
Microneedling (aka collagin-induction therapy) is a nonsurgical treatment that penetrates the skin’s surface with tiny needles to improve its appearance. It triggers the skin’s wound healing response similar other skin rejuvenation treatments such as laser or chemical peels. They all aim at causing the skin to have structural and cosmetic benefits. The procedure can help smooth lines and wrinkles, even skin tone (including stubborn melasma), refine enlarged pores, tighten skin, and fade scars and stretch marks.
Fr. Jason Emer, a dermatologist in West Hollywood, California, calls microneedling “an inexpensive approach for someone who may not be able to afford expensive lasers or peels to get something that makes their skin look brighter and younger.”
Figure 1 – A microneedling roller vs a microneedling pen.
Figure 2 – Side view.
Microneedling uses a cartridge that holds typically 12 very small needles that penetrates the skin only 0.5-2.5 millimeters.
Figure 3 – The head of a microneedle cartridge.
Microneedling is used to treat forehead wrinkles, frown lines, crows feet, bags and darkness under the eye, sage spots, scars, skin tone, and acne and acne scars, age spots, smile lines, large pores, sagging skin, and neck bands. It also helps elasticity of the skin and firming and tightening the skin. It can also be used to promote hair growth.
Nanoneedling is siiimilar to microneedling but there are more needles and they don’t penetrate as deeply. Typically only 0.5 millimeters.
Figure 4 – The head of a nanoneedle cartridge.
Nanoneedling is preferred on sensitive areas such as the lips and infraorbital ridge (under the eyes). It is mostly used to treat fine lines and wrinkles, swelling (such as under the eyes), and sagging skin. If your concerns are deep wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, stretch marks or deep acne scars, then microneedling is for you. Nanoneedling is better for the elderly since our keratinocytes move to the surface of the skin as we age.
How does it Work?
The microtrauma of micro- and nano- needling causes the body’s self-repair mechanisms to kick in. By putting serums on the skin before microneedling or nanoneedling such as Hyaluronic Acid, we can enhance these self repair mechanisms. I use special combinations aof serums to treat various conditions such as bags under the eyes, treating hyper and hypo pigmentation. The microneedling drives the serums into the superficial layers of the skin and rubbing them in after the treatment ensues their absorption. To finish the treatment, I apply a paper mask soaked with Aloe Vera and a serum to ease the skin irritation from the treatment. If I need to do a treatment that requires a deeper penetration, I can use a topical anesthetic. While that is taking effect, I will apply either red light mask (most people) or near infrared light (dark skinned people -their dark skin blocks the red light). The red and near infrared light helps the cells of the skin produce more ATP which is the molecule the cells use for energy. Which allows them to work more efficiently.
How Often do I need to be treated?
Nanoneedling, since it it is done more shallowly and healing is quicker, can be done once a week. Microneedling needs more time between treatments so should be done a month.
How long will it take to see results?
For most adults under 50 years old, it takes the skin to regenerate between 28 and 42 days. For adults over 50 years old, this may increase to up to 84 days, though the number varies. Typically, you will begin to see changes after 2-4treatments. The deeper the problem, the longer it may take.
For a rview by a doctor, and what the research says, see: Microneedling: A Review and Practical Guide.
Microneedling for Acne and Acne Scarring
Microneedling for Facial Rejuvenation (or Facelift)
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